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Monkeys live up to cheeky reputation
Luncheon: A ranger feeds monkeys living in Can Gio mangrove forest. Visitors find the monkeys’ feeding time amusing, as long as they keep their own belongings secure. — VNA/VNS Photo

In an otherwise tranquil mangrove forest, visitors must be prepared for the mischievous antics of its monkey population. Tri Binh reports.

Thuy Lan and her two daughters had been warned that the monkeys of southern Can Gio mangrove forest were mischievous.

But their eventual encounter dampened their eagerness about meeting the creatures in the wild.

"They took our motorbikes keys, our hats and some even tried to snatch our handbags," laments Lan, 43, from HCM City.

Lan and her daughters had wanted to do no more than sample the tranquil beauty of the mangroves, just 50km south of the city for themselves.

It was almost perfect – except for the monkeys.

The 50,000ha of the 70,000 Can Gio forest that is mangrove was declared part of the World's Biosphere by the United Nations' Education, Science and Culture Organisation (UNESCO) two years ago.

The salt water trees sprawl along a secluded coast that is little affected by traffic on a newly-built road on the opposite bank of the Sai Gon River, across from HCM City. The road then crosses an expanse of marsh dotted with a few thatched roofed huts.

"It's like another planet," says a woman who has spent most of her life in a narrow, crowded alley of HCM City's Phu Nhuan District.

The enthusiasm of both Lan and her daughters for their forest wanderings dissipated as soon as they were ambushed by the monkeys.

"They came from everywhere" says Lan.

"But we didn't know they were there until they jumped out of the underbrush on either side of the path into the forest."

Regular visitors to the forest go well prepared to deal with the clever animals. They make sure they keep their food and personal belongings very secure.

Can Gio Reserve deputy director Cat Van Thanh says the monkeys were first introduced in the forest 10 years ago as pets of the rangers. But as their numbers multiplied they were turned loose because they could no longer be fed.

Monkeying around

The enthusiasm of both Lan and her daughters for their forest wanderings dissipated as soon as they were ambushed by the monkeys.

It is much the same on several islands off the central coast and in World Heritage-listed Ha Long Bay, north of Ha Noi.

A 10-minute ride by an outboard-motor driven dinghy from Nha Trang is Hon Lao Island, a paradise of small animals, birds and monkeys.

It vibrates with the chirping of birds and the cries of monkeys.

But it's unwise to journey far without a guide.

Like other monkey islands, Hon Lao served as a laboratory where monkeys were used by scientists from the former Soviet Union.

The first monkeys arrived in 1987 and were freed in 1990.

Most of the older animals still carry their tags that made it easier for the rangers to monitor them.

The island became a monkey kingdom in 1995 when the 14 farming families living there returned to the mainland.

The monkeys are Macaca Rhesus and live in a highly hierarchical society where each member knows their place.

They are estimated to number more than 800 and are divided into three groups, each in its own territory.

Fights between males for supremacy are frequent with the vanquished living a solitary life or recruiting vagabonds to his cause.

Few visitors see these battles for power but they can be attacked as unwanted intruders.

The evidence is rows of coconut palms that never bear ripened fruit.

"The monkeys are devils," says a guide. "They pick the fruit as soon as it is as big as a tennis ball and throw it at visitors from the tree tops."

Many visitors have suffered head injuries.

But the most troubling incident was the disappearance of an international visitor's radio.

He accused the guides of theft and it was only when they all heard the voice of Britney Spears wafting through the trees singing, Baby One More Time that they realised that the radio had a new owner. — VNS

 
 

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