Cat Ba Island, located southwest of Ha Long Bay, is a paradise for nature lovers. Its beaches, mountains and forests offer tourists a variety of activities suited to different tastes.

A trip from Ha Noi to Cat Ba, the second largest island in Viet Nam after Phu Quoc, is done in two parts. The first part is by train or bus from Ha Noi to the city of Hai Phong. The second is from Hai Phong to the island by ferry or hydrofoil.

It takes about an hour and 15 minutes to make the 105km trip from Ha Noi to Hai Phong. Highway 5 is one of the best roads in Viet Nam because it links two of the most important economic centres in the country's north.

The vast rice fields criss-crossed with brown alluvia-laced channels along the road make it easy for travellers to forget the road was heavily bombed by the United States. It hoped to cut the flow of foreign supplies to the capital from the port during the war.

Once in Hai Phong, tourists can take one of three hydrofoils that leave from Binh Harbour, located a stones-throw from the railway station and the bus terminal. Hydrofoils leave on the hour for the 45-minute trip to the town of Cat Ba. Ferries also stop at Cat Hai, famous for nuoc mam, or fish sauce.

Cat Ba used to be neglected. Only a handful of boats would travel to the island. The nightlife was extremely boring due to a limited electricity supply and the absence of telephone lines.

Today, the town has 80 hotels containing more than 4,000 beds. However, there still aren't enough beds to accommodate the tourists who flock to the island year round.

A 1km road links the town with several small, white-sand beaches on the other side of the mountain. The beaches are named Cat Co, which means "Sand and Storks". Locals attribute the name to the large flocks of birds that used to inhabit the beaches. Local officials built a lane to connect the beaches, making it easier for visitors to move from one to another.

The clean, clear water remains calm when the sea is rough because 366 other islands shield the area. Near the town, dozens of tree-covered, bird-infested islands form a circle like a huge, natural aquarium.

Making tracks... Getting there: The journey from Ha Noi to Cat Ba is done in two stages: By road or rail to Hai Phong and then to the island – Viet Nam's second largest after Phu Quoc off the southern coast – by ferry, including the choice of a hydrofoil. Packages: Daily from US$16 a single, the package is for two days and one night, including an air conditioned bus, a 10-hour cruise, 1 night's accommodation, 1 breakfast, 1 dinner, 2 lunches, entrance fee and an English speaking guide.  An air-conditioned or single room is $4 extra. Details: For more information, Ha Noi Torseco (the Ha Noi Tourism Services Company) at 04-976 0066/976 0065 or visit www.tosercohanoi.com or www.vietnamtourism.com/ vietnamopentour.

Tropical rain forests cover 97 per cent of Cat Ba Island, not including the mangroves along various sections of the coast. The unique flora and fauna in the primeval forests and the sea encompassed by the national park on the island provide another major attraction for tourists and scientists.

Last but not least, there are mysterious caves formed by wind and water in the limestone mountains. Archaeologists have confirmed they were home to the ancient Bac Son people, who inhabited the island about 6,000 years ago.

Legend has it that the islands scattered in the sea are part of the body of a monster killed by a hero, who refused to return to heaven after the battle. He settled down in the area with a fairy. The locals are rumoured to be their descendants.

In an effort to boost tourism on the island, officials have identified the tourism industry as a priority and worked out an incentive policy to attract investment.

A section of road is under construction to facilitate the establishment of a sea route to Tuan Chau Island in Ha Long Bay. Ferries will shuttle visitors between the two scenic islands in 30 minutes.

"We will build the island into an international-scale eco-tourism centre," said Pham Tri Tue, mayor of Cat Ba. "You'll regret it if you forget to visit during your stay in Viet Nam." — VNS