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Yin and yang: The traditional tiled roofs of Hoi An follow the rule of harmony. — VNS Photo Vuong Quang Huynh
Path to peace: The covered bridge in Hoi An once connected the town’s Chinese and Japanese quarters, and still provides a nice spot to relax. — VNS Photo Dao Tien Dat
Easy riders: Hoi An’s streets are ideal for cyclos. — VNR Photo

Hoi An finds that its clean streets are paved with gold

"Our women agreed to say ‘no’ to all bad habits, including drug addiction"

by Phan Tung

It might seem far-fetched for the authorities in Hoi An to claim that their tourist town is free from "social evils", but a little chat with a cyclo driver convinced me that they are telling the truth.

As he drove me to Cam Nam to enjoy some local delicacies, Hua Luong promised me they were right.

"They’re not exaggerating," he said, after I expressed my doubts about Hoi An’s purity.

Luong confided that he had been one of Hoi An’s few notorious figures in the early 1990s, and had fallen prey to drug traffickers.

"It took me more than two years of rehabilitation to rid myself of addiction," he said. "Even if I wanted to relapse, I would be unable to find a den to sell me any drugs."

The cyclo driver confessed to me that he had mostly used opium and marijuana. He said all of the drug pushers had been exposed as local police spared no efforts to cut off all illicit supplies to the town.

Luong also said that the local motto of "all for one and one for all" was also responsible for giving addicts and dealers short shrift in Hoi An.

He recalled an incident seven years ago, when townsfolk became aware that some school students were addicted to seduxen, a prescription sleeping pill.

The chief of Hoi An’s police department, Lieutenant Colonel Nguyen Bao, told Viet Nam News that the police were called in and all 26 addicts were identified.

"After just one year, we had succeeded in transferring the few hardcore addicts to the Da Nang centre, while the rest were rehabilitated in their homes," Hoi An mayor Nguyen Su said.

It is difficult for the local police to maintain law and order in a town of 80,000 that welcomes 200,000 visitors each year. They have taken a firm approach to preventing social evil.

"And this is what makes Hoi An different," Lt-Col Bao said.

From trading port to tidy town: a chronicle of Hoi An history

1535 Hoi An first becomes known to the West when Portuguese navigator Antonio De Faria anchors off Da Nang and visits Hoi An. He was one of the first Westerners to write about the port, and under his guidance Portuguese ships begin to visit Hoi An regularly.

1560 Japanese traders arrive before the Chinese, and also leave before them. However, some Japanese set up long-term residence, and the name Fai Fo, meaning Japanese town, is born.

1565 China lifts its ban on foreign trade. The Chinese Emperor, who wants Viet Nam’s silk and porcelain, authorises trade with Southeast Asian ports and Chinese traders instantly appear in Hoi An to set up trade organisations and residences. However, China maintains its ban on Japanese ships. Hoi An becomes a source of silk for Japan.

1588 Hoi An, like many other seaports in the south, falls into the control of the Nguyen lords, who reopen foreign trade at Hoi An. Foreigners who want to trade in Hoi An are required to dock there and travel around the coast or over the Hai Van Pass to negotiate with the Nguyen lord in Hue.

1613 Richard Cocks, chief of the newly established English East India Company in Japan, dispatches two colleagues to Hoi An on a Japanese junk to investigate trade.

1618 Christopher Borri joins the newly established Hoi An Mission.

1624 French missionary Alexander de Rhodes arrives in Hoi An and continues developing the romanised Vietnamese script (quoc ngu).

1636 The Dutch establish a trading post in Hoi An under Abraham Duijker, and their presence remains until 1741. The Dutch bring heavy weapons, their own delicate glassware and Japanese copper, which could be made into weapons.

1637 Japan’s Tokugawa Shogunate restricts Japanese trade with China. Business in Hoi An is badly affected as a result. About 50 Japanese traders remain in Hoi An and Hue after the ban.

1683 China ends its "closed door" policy towards Japan. Chinese textiles and ceramics are exported worldwide and begin to compete with those from Viet Nam. Hoi An’s main trade items become dried foods for consumption in China.

1672 English traders arrive in Hoi An. They are interested in exchanging silks, sugar, tea, and porcelain for their woollen cloth.

1742 The French send Pierre Poive to survey the Hoi An business scene. Two years later, the French receive permission to set up a warehouse.

1748 Poive returns to Hoi An in an attempt to monopolise the trade in aromatics, but, French influence does not take hold in Hoi An for another century.

1786 Hoi An burns following conflict between the rising Tay Son insurrection army and the reigning Nguyen lords. Hoi An receives only a few Chinese junks each year and slowly reverts to a traditional village economy.

1999 The town is entered on the World Heritage register. — VNS

Hoi An lies between Da Nang to the north and Tam Ky to the south, and has become a must-see destination in Viet Nam after it was listed on the World Heritage register by UNESCO in 1999.

The mayor said his town had also been chosen by the Ministry of Culture and Information as a model community where the residents live in harmony, with stable livelihoods and a clean environment that leaves no room for social evils to flourish.

"But it’s easier said than done," mayor Su said.

The local authorities had worked hard to involve all local residents and organisations such as the youth and women’s unions involved in the campaign.

Huynh Thi Thanh, from Cam Chau village, is one of the many enthusiastic activists who had volunteered to protect the town’s traditional culture from the onslaught of modernity and the social evils that had spread along the central coast.

"Our women agreed to say ‘no’ to all bad habits, including drug addiction," Thanh said.

The women’s union saw prevention as better than cure when it came to fighting social evils, she said. Union activists visited homes and talked to locals about the importance of eliminating bad habits and maintaining the town’s cleanliness and tranquillity.

"Unless Hoi An protects both its architecture and culture, no visitors will want to come here."

The town has found that there is money to be made in cultural tourism. Cyclo driver Hua Luong, for example, does alright ferrying travellers around Hoi An.

However, Su wants to take the campaign further by improving the overall hospitality and business environment in the town.

"We need to make all of the small traders aware of appropriate behaviour, so that no tourists are overcharged or harassed by hawkers and touts when they visit places of interest," the mayor said. — VNS

Related Story: Traders weave the silk road of the sea

 
 

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