Test of time: Built in the 7th century, the Po Nagar Tower is probably Nha Trang’s most famous landmark. — VNA/VNS Photo Tran Son Set in stone: Statues and bas reliefs depict daily life from thousands of years ago. — VNR/VNS Photo

by Giang Quan

Crossing the Xom Bong Bridge along Nha Trang’s April 2nd Avenue, the 20m baked-brick Cham tower of Po Nagar, also known as Thap Ba, comes into view.

The towers were built between the eighth and 13th centuries on Cu Lao Island to serve as the Holy See of the Champa Kingdom of Panduranga, but archaeologists believe this site was used for Hindu worship as early as the second century. A network of stone stelae remain, some inscribed with Sanskrit markings dating from as early as 774.

Legend has it that once upon a moonlit night, a mysterious stranger, Thien Y A Na (the Vietnamese name of goddess Po Nagar), stole some melons from the Tieu couple’s garden on Dai An (now Hoa) Mountain. She was caught red-handed, but pardoned and even adopted by the couple. Later, her words of warning prompted people to take shelter from a sudden, ferocious deluge, thus saving the entire community from certain death.

When the floodwaters receded, Po Nagar re-created the world and taught the people farming and fishing. After fulfilling her mission, she turned herself into a piece of sandalwood and drifted into the Eastern Sea and back to heaven. The Cham came to refer to her as the Mother of the Land. She was also the most highly revered goddess of the Viet people who settled in the area in 1653. Thap Ba has been preserved and each year a festival dedicated to her is jointly held by both the Cham and the Viet.

Passing by the vaulted gate, restored in 1972, we come to the first platform mid-hillside, which features the ruins of a mandapa, or meditation hall, where preparations for ritual ceremonies took place. Four rows of octagonal columns stand on a large brick floor. The outer lines are composed of 14 smaller and shorter columns while the inner columns stand 5m high and are topped by the mortises of the lost roof. The cornerstone is dated 817.

After climbing 30 stone steps, we arrive at the four ancient towers and temples atop Cu Lao hill. Thap Ba, the tallest and most majestic tower at 22.3m, stands at the centre flanked by temples to the south, south-east and north-west.

Also called Po Nagar Tower, Thap Ba features three architectural elements — the foundation, the main body and the roof — symbolising the secular, spiritual and animistic worlds. A line of pillars propped against the front wall is all that remains of the gate leading to the vestibule of the inner tower; above the gate is a bas-relief sculpture of the Hindu goddess Uma, carved in 1065 during renovations.

Inside, a statue of Po Nagar sits at the centre of a square room on a base of stone decorated with linga and yoni, stylised fertility symbols. Linga and yoni also adorn the tops of the towers and temple roofs.

The original gold statue of Po Nagar was reputedly stolen during an invasion led by a king of the southern kingdom in the 10th century. The replica now standing was carved out of sandstone when the tower was restored in 965.

Po Nagar sits cross-legged on a lotus blossom, leaning back against a bas-relief of the legendary Makara sea-monster. The goddess has 10 arms: one pair rests on her knees with the right hand forming a symbol of peace and the left hand open to bestow happiness, another four pairs carry various weapons demonstrating her power and ingenuity.

Her chest is left bare, displaying her breasts and a belly marked by four deep wrinkles. She wears a sarong and a belt with a fig-leaf design along with a dazzling array of jewellery. The statue radiates a powerful, pure and sublime vitality.

Inside the 18m south tower, a pyramidal block is topped with a cylindrical limestone linga with a stout pyramid; a lotus embraces the upper part and the bottom features a line of 16 breasts. The linga is atop a square yoni carved of stone, with a furrow and a hose draining water to the east. The shape of this linga is highly unusual in Cham relics.

The north-west temple is relatively well-preserved. Dated 813, it is a classic example of Cham architecture and design. Featuring a 9m-high rectangular chamber, this monument is covered by a boat-shaped roof. Carvings of the god Indra, mythical Garuda birds, lions and women on elephants adorn its false windowpanes. Its gables also feature carvings of fig leaves and various deities.

The south-east temple, designed in the 13th century, is the smallest of the four structures. A rectangular structure enclosed by walls on three sides, its entrance gate opens to the east and its curved roof also features a distinct boat shape. Unfortunately, many sculptural works in the temple are damaged beyond recognition.

The latter two temples are decorated with mulshalinga, or linga with human faces. A cylindrical pillar features two mouldings, one running along the pillar from top to bottom, the other drawn in the shape of an elongated bow. The mulshalinga sit atop square yonis with furrows and hoses draining water for ceremonial rites.

During the first half of the first lunar month, the Cham used to celebrate the Rija Nagar festival to pray to the Mother of the Land for good fortune. The Viet people who settled in the land later adopted the tradition and now both peoples observe the rites on the 23rd day of the third lunar month.

The festival begins with the bathing of Po Nagar’s statue by 10 young girls, followed by a ritual changing of her dresses and a performance of songs and dances in her honour.

His Eminence refers to Prince Bac Hai, Po Nagar’s husband, to whom the south tower is dedicated. The "Young Lady" is Quy, Po Nagar’s daughter; Young Gentleman is Tri, her son; while the Tieu couple are her adoptive father and mother.

The Po Nagar Festival is connected with the festival of Am Chua on Hoa Mountain, where Po Nagar once lived and where the Tieu couple were buried. In addition, Phuoc Long Village has a temple devoted to Prince Bac Hai and Xuan Phong Village near Nha Trang has a temple dedicated to Po Nagar.

In personal rituals, travellers crossing the Ca Pass, people scouring the forest for sandalwood and fishermen going out to sea often make offerings to Po Nagar and thus keeping her spirit alive today. — VNS