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| Enchanting:
Visitors enjoy a moment’s respite under the
foliage of old longan trees outside Mau
(Mother) Temple, one of the few historic sites
left in Pho Hien. — VNA/VNS Photo Phung
Trieu |
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Hien
Street market comes back to life
"People
have repaired or rehabilitated some parts of the complex, but in fact
they have unintentionally destroyed what has been very precious to
us"
by
Nguyen Hoang Chi
Travelling east of
Ha Noi on Highway 5, I might not have given the rows of new-looking
houses mushrooming in Hung Yen a second thought, if it wasn’t for the
curious history of this area.
Not many people
know it, but contained within Hung Yen are the remains of Pho Hien, a
much older city that was once the north’s premier port and a vibrant
commercial and cultural melting pot for traders from all around the
world.
Over the years, as
Pho Hien yielded more and more ground to modern Hung Yen, it seemed as
if the city’s glorious past would slowly seep away into a nondescript
Vietnamese rural provincial township.
The
glorious past
But something
extraordinary has been taking place in Hung Yen in recent years. Hints
of the old Pho Hien have been emerging from the shadows. Now, a visitor
to Hung Yen can see the traces of a forgotten time, embraced by a town
that is re-discovering its fascinating past.
You don’t have
to look far in Hung Yen to find an older soul who can explain the
city’s history.
"With its
role as a key-link on the traffic artery of the Red River, Pho Hien was
once a frontal port of Thang Long Citadel opening to the sea," said
one tea shop owner-cum-self-styled historian.
"The port had
a large population with a thriving economic centre. When Van Don Port
City lost its position as the country’s foremost port in the 16th
century, Pho Hien’s ascendancy began. Pho Hien became the most
prosperous urban centre in the 17th century, a convergence of many
various cultures, including those of China, Japan, Southeast Asia and of
numerous Western countries for a peaceful co-existence," he
concluded majestically.
But the
country’s turbulent history and the ravages of time took their toll on
the ancient city. Antique artefacts were lost, pagodas and temples
damaged and precious buildings replaced by new ones.
"In 1997,
seeing the relics falling into ruin, we felt heart-broken," said
the director of Hung Yen Museum, Pham Trung Hieu.
"The Van Mieu
complex, the second best in the country after Ha Noi’s Temple of
Literature, was in disrepair. About 80 per cent of the stone stelae were
either broken or partly lost, calligraphy boards had disappeared, the
House for Poem Recitals had virtually collapsed and livestock were
grazing in the courtyard."
Less tangible
things also vanished. Few these days know that, according to an ancient
proverb, Pho Hien ranked second only to Ha Noi as a major urban centre.
Now, even young people born and bred in Pho Hien do not know the history
of their hometown.
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| Glory
recaptured: Visitors throng in to celebrate the opening of the
newly rebuilt Temple of Literature, one of the several Pho
Hien sites that have been restored. — VNA/VNS Photo Tran
Thiem |
"Pho Hien
fell into oblivion for a long time. Nowadays, things have changed
remarkably," said another old man who considered himself something
of a history buff.
After a long
slumber, the relics of Pho Hien are being brought to life.
Hieu from the
museum took us on a sight-seeing tour of the town, proudly pointing out
newly repaired temples, pagodas and statues.
A
new day begins
"We had to
gather the lost things of ancient Pho Hien piece after piece, year after
year, then arrange them in their correct place. The once-thriving Street
of Hien has gradually emerged again through our work."
So far, the
restoration has been "plain sailing", said Hieu.
"We are
assisted very effectively in terms of not only expenditure but also
professional skills. In 1996, the Pho Hien Project was initiated, with
an investment of VND4.7 billion for four sites – Van Mieu, Chuong
Pagoda, Mother’s Temple and Hien Communal House. So far, their
rehabilitation has essentially been completed."
The Ministry of
Culture and Information has also prohibited all unauthorised alterations
of historical buildings. The move is in response to attempts by some
well-meaning people to repair the buildings which resulted in damage to
their original structure and materials.
The director of
the Hung Yen Service of Culture and Information, Nguyen Phuc Lai,
observed, "People have repaired or rehabilitated some parts of the
complex, but in fact they have unintentionally destroyed what has been
very precious to us."
However, both Hieu
and Lai agree that it is the efforts of Pho Hien locals that have
ensured the success of the project.
"I’ve taken
care of this pagoda and that temple for a long time," said
66-year-old Trinh Van Hung, who is one of the townspeople most actively
involved in preserving Pho Hien’s cultural legacy .
"Since 1992,
I’ve gathered all the documents to have our pagoda recognised as a
historic and cultural relic. When the Pho Hien Conference was held, this
pagoda was recognised as one of the major works in the Pho Hien relic
complex. But despite this recognition, it still looked terrible."
"Luckily for
us, one day a visitor told me that in Ha Noi, there is an NGO which can
fund the rehabilitation of relics like ours. I went to Ha Noi to explain
our problems and we were offered US$1,000. Now, this bell-tower has been
restored and looks beautiful."
Dong Do-Quang Hoi
Temple is one of the best-preserved ancient structures in the town. Like
his ancestors before him, Hoang Van Vinh has devoted his life to caring
for the temple.
"Previously,
except for some archaeologists, few ordinary people knew the value of
this temple. Because I’m its caretaker and I’ve been well taught by
my forefathers, I know that it’s a precious legacy. So I’ve spent
all my life looking after it carefully. Now many townspeople and their
children know its value, so the loss of its antiques no longer happens.
Sometimes, people even make small contributions to repair several ruined
items, while we wait for an all-round rehabilitation project with a view
to restore the entire complex."
As I wander
through the heart of the former ancient streets, I begin to catch a
glimpse of what Pho Hien must have looked like in its heyday. I talk to
street vendors under the shadows of longan trees in the meandering
village lanes, and their anecdotes add new layers of memory and meaning.
From pagoda to
pagoda and temple to temple, I hear stories about the glorious past of
Pho Hien and how it will be restored. The revival of Pho Hien seems to
be the talk of the town. With the dedication and enthusiasm of people
like Hung and Vinh, I left town knowing that Pho Hien is in safe hands.
— VNS |
