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Roof with a view: Lack of floor space has seen many Old Quarter houses make ad hoc additions, creating a discordant appearance for the architecture of yesteryear. — VNS File Photos

Before the bikes: A photo of an Old Quarter street taken in 1916.

Model renovation: Two visitors enjoy a moment of tranquility inside a restored house in Ma May Street. This house, which has been given a major facelift by the Ha Noi authorities, has become a showcase "ancient house" in the Old Quarter. — VNS Photo Doan Tung

Indecision places Old Quarter structures at risk

by Viet Hung

Historians say the Old Quarter, first formed as a commercial hub in the 11th century, is not as old as it seems because of the regular destruction wrought by war, natural disasters and demographic change.

The oldest quarter of the old quarter is the network of narrow, winding streets that were the headquarters for traders and artisans from 36 guilds.

The residential quarter was expanded and new houses built along earthen roads as more artisans arrived from the provinces.

Urbanisation by the French colonials at the turn of the 20th century had the paths paved and brick houses replaced thatched huts.

Now the oldest houses, most in Hang Buom, Hang Dao, Hang Duong and Hang Bac, are little more than 100 years old with only aged timbers as evidence that they might be older.

Earliest town house design

Architect Nguyen Thi Hoa says physical value in the Old Quarter is determined by the design of its houses and the objects for worship – wooden statutes, stele, and incense burners – in the dozen or so pagodas and churches.

Hoa says the latest statistics compiled by the Old Quarter Preservation Management Board show that the largest estimate of "ancient" house number is 300 and only 10 per cent of these are sound.

Most are significantly deteriorated.

Hoa describes the Old Quarter town houses as the earlier types of residence suitable to marketplace inhabitants. They can be used for living, working and trading.

Hoa says many architects and historians define an "aged" Old Quarter town house by its structure: Its tunnel shape and very narrow width of between 3 to 5m extending to 20 to 40m.

It can be two-storey high or a single floor with an attic and divided into several sections along its length with separate tiny courtyards.

The street-front room is for sales and a workshop. At the rear is a living room leading to a small courtyard.

The second part of the house has one or two living rooms, often marked off by a back yard that separates the main house from an auxiliary building for kitchen, bathroom and toilet. These are always at the rear.

Architect Hoa says that anyone entering these old houses is immediately struck by an environment that oozes tradition. Such a house is at 55 Phat Loc Alley.

Old versus the new

Ha Noi’s administrators started looking at the Old Quarter with a keener eye more than a decade ago when Hoi An began attracting world attention.

They imagined their Old Quarter would one day be honoured in the same way as Hoi An.

But geography and demography decided otherwise.

For the last three centuries, the world has been oblivious to Hoi An.

Ha Noi’s Old Quarter has always been the city’s commercial hub and has never wanted for residents.

Ha Noi administrators listed about 840 out of the 4,341 houses in the Old Quarter as "ancient".

They also issued rules affirming their determination to preserve the Old Quarter houses by forbidding repairs without official consent.

Hoan Kiem District Housing Department chief Do Dinh An says, initially when an application for any repairs or rebuilding was received, his people had to seek the consent of an ad hoc committee called Old Quarter Preservation Management Board.

It was very time consuming.

Now, his department rejected all applications because it is accepted that nothing should be done to compromise the integrity of the buildings, so the houses continue to rot and residents continue to suffer.

Municipal officials discussed ways to remedy the situation, but to no avail.

Many conservationists say the city should buy some of the "ancient" houses for restoration and relocate many of the Old Quarter’s residents.

But it seems the city’s shortage of funds is making this impossible. — VNS

Related Story: A sigh from the old houses

 
 

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